Road 13 Sparkling Chenin Blanc

In the photo: the 2006 Road 13 Sparkling Chenin Blanc and its new-age crown cap.


So far only a small number of Okanagan wineries have attempted to produce sparkling wines. It's a select list that includes Sumac Ridge (with its award-winning Steller's Jay), Blue Mountain, Summerhill, SYL, Grey Monk, Little Straw, Township 7 and Elephant Island.   So we were eager to try this newcomer made from 100% Chenin Blanc grapes by winemaker Michael Bartier of Road 13 Vineyards.   CityFood wine contributor Jay Drysdale's tasting notes are below.


2006 ROAD 13 SPARKLING CHENIN BLANC
96 cases produced.
$30. Only available at the winery.
Score: 89

The pop of the crown cap increases the anticipation for a wine I have been impatiently waiting to taste since I first heard it was in production, some 18 months ago. Right away I’m admiring the light golden hue of the wine which forms the backdrop for the flurry of tiny bubbles encompassing the interior of the glass.  I close my eyes, inhale deeply, and the aromatics confirm it: “Champagne style"!  Aggressive yeast and crusty bread smells dominate the nose at first and then give way to layers of soft citrus fruits and lemon meringue pie.  Hints of peach and even a grassy finish play on the palate as this bubbly extends to a long, candied lemon finish.  Given the heat of the Golden Mile Bench, I am surprised the wine does not have riper fruit flavours, but am impressed with how the grapes natural acidity ties this wine together.  For a first effort – it has promise. That tight acidity and a concentration of flavours indicate this wine will be around for a while.  I’m looking forward to digging a bottle out again in four to five years to see how well it ages.