The Flying Tiger
2958 West 4th Ave., Vancouver, B.C.
map
604-737-7529
There were days last summer, while strolling to Kits Pool, when I’d look in on Abigail’s Party where Chef Tina Fineza (ex Bin 941, George) was working out her “modern Asian street food� menu for Roadkill Entertainment’s fourth Kits restaurant (Abigail’s, Nevermind and Hell’s Kitchen are theirs). If I was lucky I’d get a sneak peek at menu tryouts and an update on the Flying Tiger’s ETA.
A few weeks ago, I drove by Flying Tiger, found the lights on and stopped in. Open mere hours, the word was out, and the small narrow room (it’s the old Living Room) was already almost full and looking nothing like its predecessor. The walls had been lacquered in spice tones of saffron with black and red accents. Eye catching yes, and even more so in the glam washrooms.
Fineza cooks in an open kitchen and the counter seats or high tops have fine views of the sizzle. From my early previews, I knew my first dish had to be Fineza’s Mom’s Filipino ‘Humba’ style braised pork belly – a dish that arrived deeply resonant and redolent with sweet soy, garlic, cane vinegar, star anise, and lily flowers. The one dish I’m going to want to repeat with each visit.
Other musts are the red curry Saltspring Island mussels (my pick for the city's best) with chili fry bread; addictive pulled duck confit with jicama crepes that you assemble yourself; hearty Hawker Street noodles; and delicate Filipino ‘Lumpia’ spring rolls stuffed with shrimp, pork, cloud ear mushrooms, and water chestnuts.
The Korean ribs, lamb vindaloo, and the crispy Thai squid are also earning raves. Do ask neighbouring tables what they’re liking; it’s that kind of place. My informal poll has grilled bison flat iron steak, Japanese barbecued game hen and the Vietnamese ‘Nuoc Cham’ halibut as some of the front runners.
Flying Tiger is small and usually packed so go early or sit at the counter and watch Fineza and her team cook. Wine list is weighted with spicy whites but there are a few choice reds too. Beers and cocktails understandably lean towards Asia, and the sake selection is improving.
FILED BY: Judith Lane
DATE: October 15, 2006
PHOTOS BY:
Delainy Mackie
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ALL THE FACTS
Cuisine: South East Asian
Price:
Hours:
Credit Cards:
Opened: September, 2006
Owners: Roadkill Entertainment
Chef: Tina Fineza
Specialties:Tapas style dishes based on South East Asian street hawkers' fare
The Must Try Dish: Pork Belly and the Red Mussels with Chili Bread
Other Features:
Dress: casual.
Seats: 300
Noise level: moderate to loud
Categories: West Side, South East Asian,
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OTHER OPINIONS
