City Food Magazine - Steveston Pizza House

Like the fresh baked aromas of Nader Hatami’s organic pizza, the buzz about Steveston Pizza Co. has been wafting across the lower mainland. Rising dough, however, is not the only intriguing scent emanating from the corner pizzeria. The pungent perfumes of brie cheese, seaweed and truffles also fill the air, leaving pizza purists puzzled and adventurous gourmets raving.

Nestled in the former fishing town of Steveston in Richmond, the first branch of the SPC opened less than a year ago. Owner and chef, Hatami describes his surroundings as “the Kitsilano of Richmond. It’s a place with ambiance and tradition.�? And apparently, one with a fair share of indigenous pizza connoiseurs as well.

After studying the culinary arts in Portugal and designing meals for Holland America on cruise ships, Hatami decided to write his own menu, using the pizza dough as the foundation for his culinary vision. Drawing upon his surroundings and his love of quality ingredients, Hatami narrowed down the pizza possibilities by subjecting his family and friends to dozens of taste tests. His organic crust, that he swears was perfected on the first try, is made using purified water and is “medium thickness.�?

Hatami is a firm believer in the slow-food movement and at SPC no process is rushed, especially not the dough. “I am not a believer in retarders or proofers because the speed of the process is manipulated that way. Think of the dough as a child. Why would you want to rush one through his childhood?�?

Ingredients that "sing with freshness�? and a willingness to source out extraordinary products is a recurring theme at SPC. The Hokkaido camembert, for example, is imported directly from the north island in Japan and is renowned for its quality (and price). Local produce is also a key component to SPC’s success and chef Hatami is known to hand select the peppers and tomatoes instead of buying them in bulk to avoid any bruised and soggy ones.

The most popular pizzas to date are “Caveman�? and “Earth�?. The “Cavemen�? is a carnivore's dream: pepperoni, genoa salami, back bacon, seasoned ground beef and capocolli. it’s sure to leave the brave few who can stomach it feeling like a couch cavemen, ready to expire with a greasy smile. “Earth�? is a musky combination of brie, gouda, camembert, oven-dried tomatoes, roasted garlic and enoki mushrooms. “Going Back�? and “The Ketubah�? use classic culinary combinations and adapt them to the pizza. “Going Back�? layers roasted chicken, glazed walnuts and a fig mousse under gorgonzola cheese (no tomato sauce). “The Ketubah�? playfully cites the traditional Jewish wedding contract but replaces the bride and groom with a marriage of asparagus and salmon, dressing them in bocconcini, sage, Grano Padano and mascarpone and showering them with pink peppercorns.

In homage to the history of Steveston, Hatami has also conjured the “Japanese�?. It's an artfully presented collage of wasabi-scented teriyaki chicken, enoki mushrooms, Hokkaido camembert and sesame seaweed julienne that may sound bizarre but has inspired a dedicated following. “I have faithful clientele for each of the pizzas on my menu,�? says Hatami. And for those wanting a more familiar pizza experience, his menu also includes the classic pepperoni, Hawaiian and Margerite versions.

It would seem that Hatami’s gourmet touch has earned the endorsement of the public at large. The Richmond News recently awarded Steveston Pizza Company it's “Readers Choice Award.�? Now, with an additional location already in place in Port Coquitlam, Hatami sees not only a second Richmond location but plenty of sourdough crusts and lasagnas on the horizon.

By trading in the cliché, dingy t-shirt for a crisp chef’s coat and by bringing a culinary twist to the crowded pizza market, Hatami has managed to rouse a gourmet pizza counter-culture. The success hasn’t come easy though and Hatami has yet to take a day off from his twelve-hour shifts. “Every pizza gets equal attention. We will not make them any faster. Everything must be culinary! When you do things fast you miss steps,�? says Hatami, stubbornly confident that if he maintains this motto, Steveston Pizza Co. will become a permanent fixture in the hippest part of suburban Richmond.
-- Roy Vizer

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ALL THE FACTS

Cuisine: Pizza

Price: $6 - $18

Hours: 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. daily

Credit Cards:

Opened: 2005

Owner: Nadar Hatami

Chef: Nadar Hatami

Specialties: Pizzas using local, organic, and sometimes exotic ingredients on a medium pizza dough base made from unbleached, organic flour and purified water

The Must Try Dish: The Japanese Pizza

Other Features: Use of imported Japanese ingredients such as the Hokkaido camembert. Take out and delivery. 10% off pick up orders gift certificates.

Dress: casual

Seats: xxxxx

Noise: moderate

Categories: Pizza, Richmond

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