Side Dishing … A One Minute Interview with
Brian Hopkins,
Restaurant Manager
West Restaurant
Being a restaurant manager means that it’s your job to make sure that everything runs smoothly and that the customers are happy. So when you are the manager of the restaurant acknowledged to be the best in the city, you’ve got high expectations to meet and a big reputation to uphold. Every night it’s all about thinking fast on your feet and showing professionalism in every situation. But sometimes, it also helps to know when to keep a straight face.
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How badly dressed do you have to be to not be allowed in?
We don’t have a dress code but sometimes I might get a bad vibe from someone who just wants to have (another) drink, or a walk-in who looks like a total bum. It hardly ever happens but without them knowing, they won’t be allowed in. There’s a saying: take a moment and look in the mirror before you leave the house.
So once in, what’s the best seat in the house and how do you get it?
I have certain guests who want to sit at certain tables but I don’t know what tables are the best ones, although the two front ones by the window are the most requested. We have two booths – chef tables – across from the kitchen and some guests will only sit there; if we can’t seat them at those tables right away, they will wait at the bar or take a miss and come back another night. On the other hand, some guests will sit at the booth and feel like second class citizens.
How long ahead of time do you need to book these tables?
Some people really know how to plan ahead. Ideally, if you want a table
on Friday or Saturday night, phone by Tuesday; after Wednesday it gets tricky.
What’s the hardest sell on the menu?
When we do things like veal tongue, or fish that is unfamiliar, such as pink bream – these items might be a stretch for some people and some guests will think it’s great because nobody else is serving tongue or they haven’t had pink bream for a long time.
Any weird requests, and how do you deal with them?
Some people want us to hide rings in their food but we discourage that – someone might bite into it or worse, swallow it…
We do a pre-service at the beginning of each evening: I have a copy of the reservation sheet and print-outs of additions to the menu for the evening; [Chef] David Hawksworth will go over the food while I go over the reservation sheet, checking for special requests and occasions, guests we know who have special dietary concerns…
Anyone ever throw a temper tantrum?
Yes, I had one. Seriously no, we’re all mature adults.
What about bathroom sex?
We’ve speculated that’s a possibility – some couples have been gone for a substantially long period of time so make a guess.
What is the wine protocol?
Here in B.C., BYOB is illegal but a lot of restaurants turn a blind eye – that is their decision to make. Some charge a corkage fee. I’m sure the laws will change – Montreal and Toronto have BYOB restaurants but they have to be BYOB-designated. For obvious reasons I like the system the way it is. We have a substantial investment in the wine cellar and want to sell it.
Can you order off-menu?
If we can do it, you can order off-menu. Most requests are due to dietary restrictions and guests generally phone in advance. The only time we groan is when we present the dish, and they will say “I can’t eat that, I’m allergic.� Usually anything containing nuts would be written on the menu. We have a standard procedure: if someone has a serious allergy we will write ‘peanut allergy’ [for example] on every chit to the kitchen, reiterating everything that person orders. We ain’t messing with that one – it’s hard on business when you lose a guest…
Do you offer any non-food perks?
Well, we have reading glasses and shawls for ladies -- we try to meet all needs where we can.
Why did you choose this career?
I just fell into it. There was a time when I was going to high school and I needed to work so I got a job as a busboy. Then I found that I enjoyed it -- being a server on the floor was an easy life: it was an okay living and you didn’t have to work that hard.
What do you like most about it now?
When people have really enjoyed their evening.
Some of my favourite guests are the younger, less experienced diners. It’s so great to see the looks on their faces when they leave; they feel good and they are no longer inexperienced diners. They come in for a date and we make them feel special. I remember when I was young and went to a high-profile restaurant where the staff made me feel like a king (and I was with my queen) – this was something I never forgot so I want to mimic that experience.
This job brings me satisfaction; I’ve always believed in West. I opened it with David and Jack [Evrensel] six years ago and fortunately, Jack likes to move forward, always trying to make things better. David and I constantly look to change something, to improve.
Do you get your palm greased very often?
I’ve had guests give me money as they walk out the door but I find it a titch embarrassing
Do you ever have days when you just hate your job?
Never.
What would you like to tell your clientele?
When we ask you if you are enjoying everything, don’t tell us what we want to hear, tell us the truth. We ask because we care, we want to know. Sometimes you might have a problematic dish and it could be corrected. It would help us to know because we can improve on the dish if we get feedback. We print our menus in-house so I can change it the following day. When we first opened it wasn’t unusual to run out of something but that doesn’t happen anymore because we have found our way; the business is more consistent and a lot easier for the kitchen.
How about your plans for the future? Do you ever see yourself in some other career?
I’m here for the long haul – absolutely. Honestly, I can’t imagine working anywhere else in Vancouver, and I’ve worked in several restaurants. But I tend to be monogamous in all areas of my life -- my wife is still my favourite person, after 12 years… I’m here five days a week, minimum 10 hours a day and I still love it. It bothers my wife a bit but she was in the biz at one time so she understands.
Any last words of advice?
Nothing is worse or more dangerous than complacency; once you think you can’t get any better, that’s when you go the wrong way and you get bored. Always challenge yourself.
Interview by Jane Mundy
Portrait of Brian Hopkins photographed at West Restaurant by Dean Sanderson