The World of Kebabs

Interview with Dr. Anand Prakash - Author of The World of Kebabs
Interview By Tara Lee




Fire up the grill! Dr. Anand Prakash has just released The World of Kebabs (Whitecap Books) that features kebabs from around the globe. Dr. Prakash has spent over twenty-five years touring all over the world in search of recipes that reflect the diversity and vibrancy of kebab culture. In this conversation with CityFood, he talks about his travels, his extensive historical research, and above all, the secrets to making the perfect kebab.


CityFood: You have an impressive and unusual professional background for a cookbook author. You hold four university degrees, including a PhD in Marine Biology from UBC, and you were the Senior Scientific Advisor at Environment Canada. How did you become interested in kebabs?

Anand Prakash: My first encounter was when I was visiting the University of Puerto Rico in Mayaguez. In the evening, I came home to the hotel and I was wondering where to go for dinner that night. I stood in the balcony and I could smell the aroma of barbecue and I literally followed my nose. Right in the park, there was a big trolley with a great barbecue brazier on it and they were making what are called pinchos in Puerto Rico. So, I bought a cold beer, sat down, and tried it. It was fantastic! And then, as I was travelling all over, I noticed that sure enough, there was food on a stick in every place.



CF: Has your scientific background helped you in writing this cookbook?

AP: Very much so. I look at kebab cookery as more of a science than an art. For example, with marinades, you are changing the chemical composition of the meat through enzyme reactions. You tenderize the connective tissues and some of the proteins are denatured to make the toughness of the meat go away for a while. If you over marinade, the meat starts cooking and becomes soft and loses its appeal.



CF: Kebabs go by many different names and spellings. Why did you decide to use “kebab� for the title of your cookbook?

AP: There are a variety of spellings and regional names. I picked the most common spelling of kebab. If you Google the term, you’ll find that “kebab� is the most well known spelling whereas the actual spelling is “kabab� from Persia. Also, in some countries, there are meat dishes that are known as kebabs but don’t necessarily use a skewer. However, I had to draw a line somewhere so I decided that anything on a stick would be included as a kebab in the book.



CF: Could you talk about the history of the kebab? How has Islam played a large role in the spread of kebabs throughout the world?

AP: Most of the kebab culture developed through the Muslims whose cuisine was centred around lamb. It began with the Moors who filtered the kebab culture into Spain where there were no restrictions on pork like in Morocco. The Spanish developed the equivalent of the kebab which they called pinchitos morunos (spicy pork kebabs) and even to this day, they are a favourite item in tapas bars. Meanwhile, Turkish influence helped to spread the kebab all throughout Eastern Europe, through the former Yugoslavia, southern Russia, and what is called the Caucasus. Finally, there was the influence of Prussia that spread the kebab to the Middle East, but even more so, to Central and South Asia.



CF: You divide your book into nine regions (Europe, the Middle East, Africa, Central and South Asia, Southeast Asia, East Asia, Latin America and the Caribbean, North America, and Oceania). How did you decide on these regions?

AP: I divided my book according to culinary affinity and not on the basis of geography. Recipes don’t stop at the border. Regions are important because they take into account demography, culture, language, climate, and the availability of ingredients which all have an impact on the cuisine. For example, Iran is geographically in the Middle East but has more culinary affinity with Central and South Asia.



CP: So much of your book is about local conditions and adaptation in kebab culture. Can you give examples of how local conditions have affected kebab culture?

AP: In the Mediterranean, beef is quite expensive so their kebabs centre around lamb, pork, and veal. In China where pork is much in demand, there is one region called the Xinjiang where Uighur Muslims make lamb kebabs.



CP: You note that when kebabs moved to Southeast Asia there was a shift to using bamboo skewers and smaller pieces of meat. Why do you think these shifts occurred?

AP: The skewer changed because bamboo was readily available there and the size of the meat had to go down otherwise the bamboo would have burned. And so, the satay culture started.



CF: You mention that kebabs in India are the most elaborate ones that you have ever encountered. Why is that?

AP: India has the most sophisticated kebab culture because its meat base has broadened from traditional lamb and chicken to everything being available there: goat, mutton, beef, pork, game meat, poultry, game birds, fish, and shellfish. Whatever you want to put on a stick is there. Plus, there is a whole range of spices so the permutations and combinations are endless.



CF: Why do you think kebabs have yet to become popular in North America?

AP: Some ethnic groups have brought kebabs from the old country to North America. For example, the Italians introduced spiedinis to New York State which later become known as spiedies. However, in general, kebabs have not spread here because meat is plentiful and cheaper. It is easier for Americans and Canadians to put a slab of meat on the barbecue than to worry about small pieces of meat on a stick. Only now has it become more fashionable.



CF: In general, how safe are the kebabs that are sold from street carts?

AP: You have to be careful. Most of the kebabs are cooked on direct heat so there is not much problem with the meat. Problems may arise with the items that accompany the meat, like the vegetables and the drinks that they serve. But by and large, in places like Singapore, street food is quite safe. And in North America, there are health codes and inspectors.



CF: What are the most exotic ingredients you have ever been served on a kebab? Did you eat it?

AP: In Thailand, they use whole squid and cuttlefish and in Japan, small dried fish are very popular. In Vietnam, I had a shrimp lollipop. They had ground up shrimp wrapped around a sugarcane that was done on the charcoal. It was delicious and afterwards, I could chew on the sugarcane. But the most exotic kebab was in Australia where they have kangaroo kebabs. Because kangaroo meat is quite lean, it needs special preparation to prevent it from drying out. I haven’t tried it though!



CF: What are the most popular types of meat to put on kebabs?

AP: Chicken is quite popular all over since it can take all kinds of flavours and is a good neutral meat. Next in popularity would be beef, and then lamb. The least popular would be pork partly because of religious reasons and partly because it gets dry and needs a special marinade that is rich in oils.



CF: What would you suggest for vegetarians? You have a tofu kebab in the recipe book. Are all vegetable kebabs an option as well?

AP: Slightly charred vegetables taste nice. I like zucchini and eggplant. Sometimes I slice portobello mushrooms in strips and put them on the skewers with a bit of olive oil and balsamic vinegar.



CF: How did you collect your recipes?

AP: When I travelled, I watched and talked to people who cooked kebabs. In general, they were quite happy to give me their recipes. However, we had to convert them to units because people selling on the streets gave instructions that used a “bit of that� and “a pinch of that.� The only problems that I encountered were with chefs in big, fancy restaurants who were more reticent about sharing information.



CF: Do you notice any difference between the kebabs served on the street versus those that are found in fine dining establishments?

AP: Yes, the kebabs on the street taste better. I think that atmosphere is very important. On the street, you can see the smoke rising from the grill and smell the aroma of cooked meat and fat that you can’t get in a fancy restaurant.


CF: What is the proper etiquette for eating them?

AP: Normally in Southeast Asia, people walk around using their teeth to pull off pieces of meat. In a proper dining establishment, you can take the meat off with your fork. However, it is entirely up to you. There is no etiquette really. One shouldn’t even pretend to make the kebab an exclusive thing.



CF: We have all cooked kebabs on the barbecue and ended up with bits of burnt meat strung next to vegetables that are still as hard as rocks. Are there some classic match-ups of meat and vegetables to be sure that all ingredients are ready for the plate at the same time?

AP: I suggest that you cook your meat and vegetables on separate skewers. However, a lot of people want to cook them on the same skewer for aesthetic reasons. You can do that but I would recommend that you select meat and vegetables that have the same approximate cooking time. Bell peppers, onions, zucchini, and eggplant are quite good for cooking with meat because even if they get a bit charred, they have nice flavour and are great accompaniments.



CF: Do you have a favourite?

AP: I prefer the seafood ones because cooking time is very short and marinating time is only one or two hours at the most. Also, some of the firm fish stay on the skewer quite well. There is also a kebab that I have invented. It takes jerk paste from Jamaica and Cajun spice from Louisiana and puts them together. I call the result a “Jalou kebab.�



CF: Do you suggest using gas, charcoal, or electric barbecues for kebabs?

AP: Electric barbecues are useless in my opinion since they don’t generate much heat. Part of the smoky flavour happens when the fat drops on the hot charcoal and smoke is generated. The choice is between charcoal and gas. Personally, I don’t notice much difference between things grilled on charcoal and things done on a gas barbecue. I prefer the convenience of gas because you can control the temperature and it is easy to clean and operate.



CF: What do you think is the secret to a great kebab?

AP: Patience. Once it’s on the grill, you must never leave the grill. You can’t afford to walk off otherwise the kebabs can become charred. Unlike barbecuing, kebab grilling is quick. They normally take only about 6-8 minutes.



CF: After 25 years of research It must feel incredible to finally see the finished product.

AP: I am happy that the book is finished now. I wrote my first article when I was twenty years old and doing my master’s degree. I remember the euphoria and excitement of seeing it in print, and I get the same feeling now.





Tara Lee lives in Vancouver and writes the blog Literary and Culinary Rambles.